Central Asia: Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan

Lose yourself among the blue domes and mosaics of the Registan in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Play Marco Polo, exploring Silk Road forts while bathed in the light of the snowcapped Hindu Kush in the Wakhan Valley, Tajikistan. Watch a Kyrgyz eagle hunter in action, and taste the delights of fermented mare's milk in Kyrgyzstan. Follow in the footsteps of British spies, Chinese pilgrims and Russian explorers and embark on your own Great Game. Five authors, five 'stans, 27 visa stamps (78 visa checks), 182 pots of green tea, one (short) detention by the KGB. Everything you need to know about visas, travel permits and crossing Asia's remotest borders.